Apart from the vile weather, Poland made a favourable initial impression; Poles that look like Poles. The passport inspector looked like General Jaruselski and loads of the guys had the full Lech Walesa in the moustache department. Plus, all the immigration guys were armed to the teeth with some of them wearing camoflage and boots and holding wild dogs. I like that sort of thing, makes you know that you've arrived.
A Brush with the Stasi
I am sure that there must be better places to spend September than the outskirts of Krakow in the rain. But it's hard to think of one, look at the fabulous view from our hotel:
And here's our beautiful hotel. Have you ever cruised down the motorway and seen those horrible looking F1 or Travel Lodge hotels and wondered what unfortunate souls have to stay there?
Only moments later the security guards came over and asked me why I was taking photographs.
"I'm a bloody tourist, you twat. Taking photographs is what tourists do! We would'nt be tourists otherwise." Maybe I should'nt have turned on the coach drivers. "Who bleeding grassed me up?" does'nt go down too well in Polish. Roll on the revolution. Never mind, Polish beer is nice.
Zywiec, Tyskie and Lech.
"I'm a bloody tourist, you twat. Taking photographs is what tourists do! We would'nt be tourists otherwise." Maybe I should'nt have turned on the coach drivers. "Who bleeding grassed me up?" does'nt go down too well in Polish. Roll on the revolution. Never mind, Polish beer is nice.
Zywiec, Tyskie and Lech.Schindler's List
Roman Polanski, the Pianist
Kazimierz is the district that housed Kraków’s Jews for over 500 years. In the last decade it has been rediscovered, and its hollowed-out Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Famous for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and spanners, you’ll find the heart of Krakow’s artsy character. Peeling façades and wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafes, each one effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential point of interest to any visitor.
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz the Great. Unlike Kraków, which was largely populated by Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not until 1495 when Jews were expelled from Kraków that they started to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its Magdeburg Rights, which allowed markets to held in what is now Pl. Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded as being one of the most influential Polish towns during the middle ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was flourishing and numerous synagogues had been constructed. Alas, Kazimierz was about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was hit by the plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined by the Swedish invaders. Famine, floods and anti-Jewish riots followed in quick succession, and it wasn’t long till a mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant Kazimerz a broken shell.
In 1796 Kraków came under Austrian control, and four years later Kazimierz was incorporated into Kraków. It was to signal the areas rebirth. The governing Austrians ordered Kraków’s Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and the area was slowly redeveloped; timber houses were banned, streets were cobbled and walls that once ringed Kazimierz demolished. Kazimierz was finally going places; in 1857 the first gas lamps lit up the streets, a tram depot added in 1888 and in 1905 a power station. By 1910 the Jewish population stood at 32,000, a figure that was to nearly double during the inter-war years, and a rich cultural life arose around them. But this was to change with the outbreak of WWII, and the Nazis monstrous ideas of racial superiority. Approximately three to five thousand of Kraków’s Jews survived the horror of the Holocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar Schindler. Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living in Kraków in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the past soon vanished. The anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist authorities sparked waves of emigration to Israel, and by the 1970s signs of Jewish life had all but disappeared. The fall of communism in 1989 sparked new hope. Kazimierz by this time had become a bandit suburb, the sort of place you’d only visit with military backup. But investment began trickling in and the areas decline was reversed; 1988 saw the first Jewish Festival take place, and five years later the Judaica Foundation was opened. That was also the year Spielberg arrived to film Schindler’s List, a film that would put Kazimierz on the world map and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as high on itineraries as a trip to Wawel, illustrating the historical importance and public regard the area has.
To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimerz at the top of Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa. Here you’ll find the restaurant Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long ago in Kazimierz). Disguised to look like a row of shop fronts the doorways come adorned with traders names splashed on them: Holzer, Weinberg, Nowak. It’s not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you walk down the Austrian cobbles. Next door swat up on your literature by visiting Jarden, the areas first Jewish bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka 6 (now Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant). The building formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed and ten women drowned. Modern day Szeroka has a raft of restaurants to pick from, though you can’t do much better than visting Rubinstein at number 12. It’s named so for a reason. ‘Queen of Cosmetics’ Helena Rubinstein was born next door at number 14.
Kazimierz is the district that housed Kraków’s Jews for over 500 years. In the last decade it has been rediscovered, and its hollowed-out Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Famous for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and spanners, you’ll find the heart of Krakow’s artsy character. Peeling façades and wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafes, each one effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential point of interest to any visitor.
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz the Great. Unlike Kraków, which was largely populated by Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not until 1495 when Jews were expelled from Kraków that they started to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its Magdeburg Rights, which allowed markets to held in what is now Pl. Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded as being one of the most influential Polish towns during the middle ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was flourishing and numerous synagogues had been constructed. Alas, Kazimierz was about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was hit by the plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined by the Swedish invaders. Famine, floods and anti-Jewish riots followed in quick succession, and it wasn’t long till a mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant Kazimerz a broken shell.
In 1796 Kraków came under Austrian control, and four years later Kazimierz was incorporated into Kraków. It was to signal the areas rebirth. The governing Austrians ordered Kraków’s Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and the area was slowly redeveloped; timber houses were banned, streets were cobbled and walls that once ringed Kazimierz demolished. Kazimierz was finally going places; in 1857 the first gas lamps lit up the streets, a tram depot added in 1888 and in 1905 a power station. By 1910 the Jewish population stood at 32,000, a figure that was to nearly double during the inter-war years, and a rich cultural life arose around them. But this was to change with the outbreak of WWII, and the Nazis monstrous ideas of racial superiority. Approximately three to five thousand of Kraków’s Jews survived the horror of the Holocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar Schindler. Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living in Kraków in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the past soon vanished. The anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist authorities sparked waves of emigration to Israel, and by the 1970s signs of Jewish life had all but disappeared. The fall of communism in 1989 sparked new hope. Kazimierz by this time had become a bandit suburb, the sort of place you’d only visit with military backup. But investment began trickling in and the areas decline was reversed; 1988 saw the first Jewish Festival take place, and five years later the Judaica Foundation was opened. That was also the year Spielberg arrived to film Schindler’s List, a film that would put Kazimierz on the world map and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as high on itineraries as a trip to Wawel, illustrating the historical importance and public regard the area has.
To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimerz at the top of Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa. Here you’ll find the restaurant Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long ago in Kazimierz). Disguised to look like a row of shop fronts the doorways come adorned with traders names splashed on them: Holzer, Weinberg, Nowak. It’s not hard to feel the ghosts of the past as you walk down the Austrian cobbles. Next door swat up on your literature by visiting Jarden, the areas first Jewish bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka 6 (now Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant). The building formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed and ten women drowned. Modern day Szeroka has a raft of restaurants to pick from, though you can’t do much better than visting Rubinstein at number 12. It’s named so for a reason. ‘Queen of Cosmetics’ Helena Rubinstein was born next door at number 14.
Hils asked our tour guide "Where is everyone?" She replied that they were all at work because it was a working day. But the place was deserted, in where we live in East London there are always people about in the streets on any day: youngsters, mothers with small children, old people. And in any Jewish area like Golders Green or Stamford Hill there is a Jewish community; Jewish shops, kosher butchers and frommies going about with hats and plaits. Ghost town, already.
Helena Rubinstein's childhood home. Our guide said that it was No.15 the pink one but the guide book said it was No.14. I don't care; it's No.15 in my book because I like the colour; Helena Rubinstein's old house should be a lipstick colour.
Wawel Royal Castle
Wawel Royal Castle and Cathedral. Coronation of Monarchs.
Dragon gutters and downpipes. Wawel Hill is he Dragon's Den, Smok Wawelski.
Muppet in the rain. Where's my umbrella?
Royal Arms with the chickens and the geezers on horseback.
Royal Arms with the chickens and the geezers on horseback.
We were equally bamboozled by a rather sad looking sheep that seemed to be everywhere. And then it dawned on us and we both chorused "It's the the Holy Lamb of Gawd." Pathetic really.
Chapels of dead Kings. King Sigismund's chapel gets the gold roof.
When I die I have often thought of how I would like to come back; lion, gazelle etc. I thought life as a greyhound would be nice, a life of languid leisure but no, it's a Polish nun. These girls are like rock stars.
Kanonicza Street.
Kraków's most picturesque street, and an essential part of any tourist itinerary. The cobbled alley is lined with superb examples of renaissance and baroque architecture, and many of the facades feature colourful murals and passageways leading to quiet courtyards. At number 9 is the former residence of 18th century patriot Hugo Kołlątaj. Number 19 is home of the Archidiocesan Museum, and at the very end, number 25, lies the former royal bathhouse nowadays better known as Dom Długosza. One popular tale surrounding the bathhouse claims that the future Queen Jadwiga, concerned about rumours that Lithuanians had gigantic genitals, sent one of her servants to spy on the manhood of Lithuanian Grand Duke Jagiełlo - her husband-to-be. Her fears appear to have been allayed and the couple later got married.
Royal Coronation route.
Beautiful Downtown Krakow
Our tour guide, assured us that Krakow was really beautiful and whilst it could get a little cold in winter, September was usually really nice. Meanwhile it was pissing down.
The sky was now entirely grey but, undeterred, we continued our walking tour down the Royal Way through to the Market Square to visit the Cloth Hall and listen to the trumpeters from St. Mary's church tower. What's a spot of rain?
It was now pelting down.
It was now pelting down.
Kraków will long remember the 2002 visit of Pope John Paul II. The pope lived for 40 years in and around Kraków, with his most recent visit drawing a staggering crowd of 2.5 million fans to Błonie field. As an 18-year-old-student, he took spartan quarters at ul. Tyniecka 10, just across from the Grunwaldzki bridge. A plaque honours his darting presence
Church of Saints Peter and Paul.
Main Market Square. I remember Dan Cruikshank on telly getting extremely moist describing how beautiful it is . Well, Dan it was but it was also extremely raining.
St. Wojciech, predates the square.
Saint Mary's Basilica
Celestial Granny flats. Onion domes and knocked that theory on the head.
St Mary’s Church (known as Mariacka Bazylika) stands in the main square of Cracow and sports two splendid towers. The tallest of these is 81 metres high and the shortest is 69 metres high.
The Hejnalica bugle call tower (the tallest tower) has an interesting history. In medieval Europe, watchmen announced the coming of dawn to city inhabitants but also warned them of imminent danger. This tower was the watchtower that served Cracow.
Built in the 15th century, the tower’s upper part was given the form of an octagonal “tip”, creating what is now the highest workplace for buglers in Poland. It was from high that the bugle call is sounded every hour to the 4 corners of the world. With a melody of only 5 notes, the bugle call is broken off abruptly. This is said to commemorate an event in the 13th century, when one of the guards spotted the Tatar hoards approaching Cracow. His alarm call was abruptly ended a Tatar arrow which pierced his throat. Nowadays, the melody also breaks off quite unexpectedly, as if someone had suddenly interrupted the bugler’s playing.
Statue of Adam Mickiewicz
"Weather beautiful, having a lovely time. Wish you were here."
Town Hall Tower. Eros Bendato by Igor Mitoraji.
Wieliczka Salt Mine
We love a good jaunt and we were in for a treat in the afternoon. Off to the salt mines, it does not rain underground. Sadly, most of my photos taken underground were rather crap because my camera is useless for low light and I was snapping pictures on the sly because I was too mean to pay the 10 zloty photography permit.
We love a good jaunt and we were in for a treat in the afternoon. Off to the salt mines, it does not rain underground. Sadly, most of my photos taken underground were rather crap because my camera is useless for low light and I was snapping pictures on the sly because I was too mean to pay the 10 zloty photography permit.
Active mining was discontinued in 1996 due to low salt prices and mine flooding. The mine remains a major tourist attraction.
The mine reaches down to a depth of 327 meters and is over 300 km long. The Wieliczka salt mine features a 3.5-km. tour for visitors (less than 1% of the length of the mine's passages) that includes statues of historic and mythic figures.
The older works were sculpted by miners out of rock salt more recent figures have been fashioned by contemporary artists. Even the crystals of the chandeliers are made from rock salt that has been dissolved and reconstituted to achieve a clear, glass-like appearance.
Here's a view of our chaps with Krjstia, our local guide who had a very nice line in sarcastic humour. All the english-speaking Poles sounded like Meryl Streep in "Sophie's Choice".
hadesThe rock salt is naturally grey, in various s like granite, so that the carvings resemble carved unpolished granite rather than having the white or crystalline appearance that many visitors expect. (The carvings appear white in the photos below; the actual carved figures are not white.) Also featured is a large chamber with walls carved to resemble wooden chapels built by miners in earlier centuries; an underground lake; and exhibits on the history of salt mining.
Chapel of Saint Kinga.
Concentration Camps
Day one was salt mines, day two was concentration camps. Some holiday! Day three was flagellation and self-mutilation so we skipped the Auschwitz and Birkenau tour and visited beautiful Downtown Krakow again.
The mine reaches down to a depth of 327 meters and is over 300 km long. The Wieliczka salt mine features a 3.5-km. tour for visitors (less than 1% of the length of the mine's passages) that includes statues of historic and mythic figures.
The older works were sculpted by miners out of rock salt more recent figures have been fashioned by contemporary artists. Even the crystals of the chandeliers are made from rock salt that has been dissolved and reconstituted to achieve a clear, glass-like appearance.
Here's a view of our chaps with Krjstia, our local guide who had a very nice line in sarcastic humour. All the english-speaking Poles sounded like Meryl Streep in "Sophie's Choice".
hadesThe rock salt is naturally grey, in various s like granite, so that the carvings resemble carved unpolished granite rather than having the white or crystalline appearance that many visitors expect. (The carvings appear white in the photos below; the actual carved figures are not white.) Also featured is a large chamber with walls carved to resemble wooden chapels built by miners in earlier centuries; an underground lake; and exhibits on the history of salt mining.
Chapel of Saint Kinga.
Concentration Camps
Day one was salt mines, day two was concentration camps. Some holiday! Day three was flagellation and self-mutilation so we skipped the Auschwitz and Birkenau tour and visited beautiful Downtown Krakow again.
View of the memorial at Plaskow concentration camp.
Out and About in Krakow
The flags were out in Krakow the next day as it was merely drizzling. We decided on a bit of independent exploration of the Old Town as in shuffling around aimlessly for a bit, getting lost, finding a bar and having a nice sit down.
View up Florianska Street towards Saint Florian's Gate.
Ukrainian national instrument, a Bandura which is a harp-like hybrid plucked. 10 bass strings on the neck and 40 or more strings in total. Sounded Welsh to me.
Sukiennice.
Kraków’s Rynek is the natural ground zero of the city, and sitting in the middle of it all like a cake with a cherry on it is the Cloth Hall – known to the natives as the Sukiennice. It’s come a long way since the times when it was no more than a line of two walls, their purpose being to shelter traders carts at night. In the 14th century, as more and more stalls sprang up around it, King Casimir the Great allowed for it to take the form of a huge hall. This was to become the centre of trade for Kraków’s merchants, bakers, cloth makers and fishmongers, and technically one of the worlds first, if not the first, shopping malls. During the 16th century the hall underwent a renaissance facelift overseen by Jan Maria Padovano, and brilliantly deformed gargoyles were added to the façade. The late 19th century saw many of the outbuildings torn down and it was then that the neo-Gothic colonnades were added – the brainchild of Tomasz Pryliński, a student of Jan Matejko. Indeed, through history the Sukiennice has been associated with the greats of Polish art, though those wishing to view the Museum of 19th Century Art housed inside will be in for a disappointment – it’s closed until 2009. Make do instead by shopping for garish souvenirs and local craftwork inside the draughty halls, or by taking high tea, like Lenin and his mistress once did, in the Noworolski café.
Polish walk-in newsagents (e.g the UK's WHSmiths) are still quite rare. Most Poles who need a newspaper or magazine have to use the legendary Polish kiosk. However, as you can see from the pic...you can buy much more than just a paper or mag (e.g. chocolate, drinks, sanitary towels, condoms, batteries, washing-up liquid, bus/tram tickets, cigarettes...and much more!).
One thing that is strange...is why the hell did they make the hatch so low down!!! I get a bad back just by looking at it! lol!
The great Polish kiosk. Where would we be without them?
Barbakan.
Last night in Poland. A gathering of the Okocims down our end of the table.
Polish Vodka
I bought this very handsome cut crystal vodka drinking glass adorned with the White Eagle of Poland so I thought that I should try it for size with a bottle of Polish vodka. The glass cost me 25 zloty and the vodka was 26 zloty. The cold and the rain had brought on a bit of a sniffle anyway. Do me good......
What a little sweetie; it's not a chicken, it's a White Eagle. I thought that this glass would also come in quite handy for the tippling of sloe gin and other winter fancies.
Żubrówka Bison Grass Vodka is a 40% proof rye vodka. Flavoured with a tincture of the bison grass herb, the blade of grass in the bottle is only decorative. The name comes from the "Zubr", the Slavic word for the Wisent or European Bison who are particularly fond of the herb. Someone has to like it. It has a pale yellowish colour and unique taste and aroma often described as having vanilla, coconut and almond-like qualities.
Personally, I would say more Nitromors-like qualities but you can't taste things properly when your nose is a bit stuffed up. This vodka took my breath away and sent tingles running up and down my spine as my eyes watered. You can see how ill I was; look at the level of the bottle. I only drank it because I had to. Honest.
Personally, I would say more Nitromors-like qualities but you can't taste things properly when your nose is a bit stuffed up. This vodka took my breath away and sent tingles running up and down my spine as my eyes watered. You can see how ill I was; look at the level of the bottle. I only drank it because I had to. Honest.
Polish Lavvies
I thought that Polish toilet signs were fascinating. Polish words usually look as if they have been produced by a random alphabet blender but "Toalety" is a nice exception. "I say old thing, I'm popping off to the toalety" Sounds rather sweet; I think I'll go right now just for the fun of it.
However, the really smart and sophisticated places (the ones we frequented) did'nt do Toalety. They did the triangle and the circle, preferably in precious metals. But which one is which? You have to know the secret.
First of all, you need to know that the triangle and the circle is the door to the lavvies. That filters out the great unwashed. Then when you are through that door you need to know which is Male and which Female. And I am not going to tell you even though I do know; I'm going to let you stand there hopping up and down on one leg as I had to. Nerrrrrr!
Despite the lousy weather and all my endless moaning, I rather enjoyed our brief stay in Poland and would love to come again. In the summer.
Despite the lousy weather and all my endless moaning, I rather enjoyed our brief stay in Poland and would love to come again. In the summer.
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